Free

I used to ride a bodyboard. I wasn’t great at it, but I didn’t suck at it either. But one day, I realised that little by little, life had gotten in the way, and I hadn’t taken my board out of its bag in a couple of years. And now, I miss it.

I miss the feeling of paddling out in the pre-dawn glow on a glassy day, when there’s no breeze and the temperature is just below warm. The paddling is easy, settling myself into a rip so that I don’t have to duckdive oncoming waves, and it pulls me out with barely any effort.

I miss the feeling of sitting out the back, straddling my board, half submerged in the water as I wait for the next set to roll-in and give me my first ride of the day.

I miss the feeling of paddling hard for a few seconds, then taking off, grabbing a rail and trimming along the glassy lump of water, about as close to being liquid myself as possible.

I miss the feeling of pulling off the back of the wave once the ride is over, my face covered in spray, heart racing, and beginning the paddle back out the back.

But most of all, I miss the feeling of freedom. Once that first ride is over, everything else goes away. Work, the internet, fights with family or friends, my to-do list, stress, anxiety, the million and one things everyone has running through their minds at any given time. It all just… disappears. And in that moment, when you feel your soul lighten, and as the sun comes over the horizon, you are free.